Collagen is often referred to as the "protein of youth". Present in skin, cartilage, ligaments, tendons and even vascular walls, it plays a fundamental role in the structure and resistance of our tissues. Yet, from the age of 25-30, its natural production gradually declines, accelerating the visible signs of aging, but also certain joint or circulatory fragilities.

To this natural loss are added several aggressions: UV rays, pollution, oxidative stress, chronic inflammation and the action of degrading enzymes such as MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases).

With this in mind, it becomes pertinent to consider a global approach: not only stimulating the production of new collagen, but also protecting the collagen already present, and creating an environment favorable to its stability. This is precisely what certain medicinal plants and essential oils offer, rich in active compounds targeting these different levers.

Understanding collagen: structure, role and dynamics

Collagen is a fibrous protein that forms the framework of connective tissue.

There are at least 28 types of collagen identified to date, but types I, II and III account for over 90% of total collagen in the body. They are also the ones most often targeted by dietary supplements and cosmetics:

• Type I: the most abundant, structuring skin, tendons, bones.
• Type II: specific to articular cartilage.
• Type III: associated with the elasticity of supple connective tissues (young skin, blood vessels, lungs).

Collagen synthesis relies on the activity of specialized connective tissue cells: fibroblasts. These cells produce and organize collagenous fibers, in response to precise biological signals.

Among these signals, TGF-β1 (Transforming Growth Factor Beta 1) plays a central role. It triggers a cell-signaling cascade known as the Smad pathway, which activates the expression of genes involved in collagen manufacture, particularly types I and III.

But this production can only take place efficiently if certain enzymatic cofactors are present. In particular, vitamin C is essential for the hydroxylation of proline and lysine, two amino acids required for the correct formation of the collagen triple helix. Without it, even if fibroblasts are activated, the fibers produced will be unstable or degraded.

As for collagen degradation, it is mainly linked:

• to the action of the enzymes MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9,
• to oxidative stress (free radicals),
• to glycation, a phenomenon accelerated by a diet rich in fast sugars.

Three natural levers to act on collagen

1 - Stimulate the synthesis of new collagen

Numerous plant compounds promote collagen production via TGF-β1 activation, fibroblast proliferation or the supply of metabolic cofactors. Among them:

• Asiaticoside (Centella asiatica)
• Ginsenosides (Panax ginseng)
• Italidiones (Helichrysum italicum)
• Linalool (Lavender, Hô wood)
• Vitamin C (Rose hip, sea buckthorn, acerola)

2 - Protect existing collagen

This is achieved by inhibiting the enzymes responsible for its degradation:

• Geraniol (Rose Geranium, Palmarosa) inhibits MMP-1
• Rutin and chlorogenic acid (Aronia melanocarpa, green tea)

3 - Reduce inflammation and oxidative stress

Chronic inflammation indirectly activates degradation enzymes. The presence of antioxidants and anti-inflammatories in the tissue environment promotes collagen stability.

• α-pinene (frankincense, rockrose, pine)
• Limonene (citrus)
• β-caryophyllene (copaiba, black pepper)
• Polyphenols (pomegranate, green tea, turmeric)

Panorama of the most promising plants and essential oils

Home recipe: Regenerating pro-collagen serum

For a 30mL bottle

Aromatic core

• 5 drops Ciste ladanifère EO
• 5 drops Rosemary verbenone EO
• 5 drops Clary Sage EO
• 5 drops Wild Carrot EO

Lipid matrix

For the plant matrix, we offer 4 variants:

Synergy 1 - "Complete Action" (3 oils)
Jojoba 50%
Nigella 30%
Apricot Kernel 20%
This synergy combines the direct action of nigella on collagen, the perfect penetration of jojoba and the regenerating softness of apricot kernel. Fluid texture, discreet fragrance, maximum effectiveness: it's the perfect balance between performance and comfort in daily use.

Synergy 2 - "Douceur Pure" (2 oils)
Jojoba 70%
Apricot Kernel 30%
Ideal for sensitive skin or those who prefer a minimalist approach. This combination offers an exceptional silky texture and a very neutral scent, while providing vitamins A and E to support skin regeneration.

Synergy 3 - "Maximum Protection" (3 oils)
Jojoba 40%
Sesame 35%
Black cumin 25%
For those seeking enhanced antioxidant protection. Sesame provides specific antioxidants (sesamolin, sesamin) that perfectly complement black cumin's action on collagen. Recommended for mature skin or skin exposed to environmental aggressions.

Synergy 4 - "Antioxidant Simplicity" (2 oils)
Jojoba 60%
Sesame 40%
The simplest but most effective synergy, capitalizing on the synergy between jojoba's regulation and sesame's antioxidant power. Perfect for a preventive anti-aging routine or as a complement to other active skincare products.

Instructions for use: Apply 3-4 drops in the evening to clean, damp skin. Massage well in upward movements.

Precautions:Do not use if pregnant or breastfeeding, or on children. Prior skin test recommended.

Finally

Phytotherapy and aromatherapy offer invaluable tools for promoting collagen production, protecting its structures and preserving youthful tissue. Far from promising miracles, it is through regular, reasoned and well-documented use that these approaches reveal their full effectiveness.

In the light of current data, a synergy between plant extracts, essential oils and overall lifestyle hygiene constitutes one of the most promising natural means of supporting connective tissue throughout life.

Scientific references

Addis, R., Cruciani, S., Santaniello, S., Bellu, E., Sarais, G., Ventura, C., Maioli, M., & Pintore, G. (2020). Fibroblast proliferation and migration in wound healing by phytochemicals: Evidence for a novel synergic outcome. International Journal of Medical Sciences, 17(8), 1030-1042.

Andrulewicz-Botulińska, E., Kuźmicz, I., Nazaruk, J., Wosek, J., & Galicka, A. (2019). The concentration-dependent effect of anethole on collagen, MMP-2 and GAG in human skin fibroblast cultures. Advances in Medical Sciences, 64(1), 94-101.

Bahramsoltani, R., Farzaei, M. H., & Rahimi, R. (2014). Medicinal plants and their natural components as future drugs for the treatment of burn wounds: An integrative review. Archives of Dermatological Research, 306(7), 601-617.

Bondarenko, L., Kalachinskaya, M., Serhiichuk, N., Motronenko, V., & Biloshytska, O. (2023). Possibilities of plant preparations use for collagen structure and metabolism disturbances correction: Modern state of problem. Innovative Biosystems and Bioengineering, 7(1), 6-24.

Chang, H. C., Lin, Y. K., Liang, C. H., Huang, H. W., Lin, Y. H., Lin, Y. H., Hu, W. C., & Chiang, C. F. (2021). Collagen formula with Chinese herbal medicine can improve skin condition and reduce inflammation: A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial. Nutrition & Food Science, 51(6), 1166-1179.

Garg, C. (2017). Molecular mechanisms of skin photoaging and plant inhibitors. International Journal of Green Pharmacy, 11(2), 217-223.

Kanlayavattanakul, M., & Lourith, N. (2015). An update on cutaneous aging treatment using herbs. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 17(5), 227-232.

Nobile, V., Schiano, I., Germani, L., Cestone, E., Navarro, P., Jones, J., & Caturla, N. (2023). Skin anti-aging efficacy of a four-botanical blend dietary ingredient: A randomized, double-blind, clinical study. Cosmetics, 10(1), 16.

Salem, M. A., Manaa, E. G., Osama, N., Aborehab, N. M., Ragab, M. F., Haggag, Y. A., Ibrahim, M., & Hamdan, D. I. (2022). Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.) essential oil and oil-loaded nano-formulations as an anti-aging potentiality via TGFβ/SMAD pathway. Scientific Reports, 12, 6783.

TCI Co., Ltd. (2020). Investigation of the efficacies of multi berries juice on antioxidant effect and improvement of skin conditions. Clinical trial registration: NCT04878523.

Goia-Socol, M. (2018). Effects of Arom Digest Slim on metabolic profile and food behaviour in overweight persons. Clinical trial registration: NCT03533881.